Word: fishly
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Riga's Central Market is a playground for the serious food shopper. This vast bazaar houses hundreds of stalls in the airship pavilions, each of which specializes in a different category of fresh produce: meat, dairy, breads, fruits and veggies, and fish. Step inside any one of them and you're met with an environment so lively and authentic you'll be eager to claim your spot among the haggling locals...
That focus landed Hermann at the house of eccentric wunderkind Galliano in 1996 and eventually at Dior. "We were le carpe and le lapin," she says, laughing at the French image of the classic odd couple, the fish and the rabbit. "He was the British boy, and I was the French bourgeois girl. But we respected the same values...
Environmentalists and industry dispute whether current wild-fish harvesting is done at sustainable levels, but there's no dispute that it's a finite resource - and demand keeps growing. A staggering 37% of all global seafood is now ground into feed, up from 7.7% in 1948, according to recent research from the UBC Fisheries Centre. One third of that feed goes to China, where 70% of the world's fish farming takes place; China now devotes nearly 1 million hectares (close to 4,000 sq. mi.) of land to shrimp farms. And about 45% of the global production of fishmeal...
There are other collateral problems created by industrial scale aquaculture: the destruction of coastal habitats through waste disposal, the introduction of diseases and the possible escape of exotic species that can threaten indigenous breeds. Halweil says we need to farm fish in ways that more closely "mimic the oceans," combining multiple, complementary species, including "cleaner fish" to control sea lice, for instance, as some farms already do in Norway...
Were people simply to eat more fish that live lower down in the food chain, it would mean significant ecological pluses with no real diminution in human health benefits. That calculus may already be helping to recharge the allure of the modest shellfish, including the oyster, which is the target of reseeding campaigns from Long Island Sound to Puget Sound, where it has been most successful. Not only are oysters, along with other mollusks, good for you - oysters are freakishly high in zinc - they feed themselves...