Word: fishly
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Americans were slower to embrace Japanese cuisine - or Japanese anything. "They first had to overcome the prejudice left over from World War II," says Leslie Brenner, author of American Appetites. But when nouvelle cuisine swept American metropolises, it carried along its strong Japanese component. When raw fish first appeared on West Coast plates, "it grossed people out," says Brenner. "Americans didn't eat tuna except out of a can before the '80s. Japanese food changed our relationship with fish...
...York the first sushi bar opened its doors in 1963. But it wasn't until the '90s that New Yorkers truly discovered the vast world of Japanese cuisine that lay beyond raw fish on a rice ball - and began to make it their...
...technique," he explains. "So I combine the two. I'll take pompano and marinate it in miso, which preserves and enhances the flavor. That's very Japanese. Then I'll turn to French technique in how I cook it." Ono points to his salmon dish: he cures the fish with salt and ginger, adds a pinch of green-tea powder as a counterpoint, then pan roasts it to a crispy finish...
Above all, though, Sono is New York. Look for proof in a menu celebrating the Jewish holiday of Passover: matzo balls in miso soup, sansho pepper-crusted lamb, even gefilte fish quenelles with wasabi and beet juice...
...York chefs are happy to comply. Ruby Foo's serves up unabashedly inauthentic creations, like a grilled pineapple, kiwi and mango maki with a neon-green cilantro sauce. Monster Sushi features the fist-sized Monster Roll: eel, shrimp, avocado, asparagus, mushroom, flying-fish roe and spinach. Even more shocking: Sushi Samba combines salmon, shiso, jalapeño, red onions, eel and gooey melted mozzarella in its El Topo Roll (accompanied by spicy mayo and onion fritters...