Word: flavorfully
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Last fall he moved to a new location with a stunning art deco interior, where he talks of trying to "exfoliate the levels of flavor." Whatever that may mean, on the plate it translates into several engaging combinations, such as Impromptu Salad, made with wild greens, herbs and even berries of the season; satiny poached sablefish sauced with white wine and leeks; and delicately moist salmon with julienne vegetables and herbed mustard butter...
...local cuisine. Run for three years by Bruce Naftaly, 34, and Robin Sanders, 35, the restaurant produces lackluster food and some needless extra irritants. The tone of service is both chummy and didactic. An unsmilingly intent preppie waiter offers the "observation" that the regular coffee has far more flavor than the espresso. As for ice cream, one can have it "nestled" beside a poached pear, but in the waiter's opinion, "it is good enough to stand on its own," a promise not fulfilled by the bland dessert...
...diverse though the array of take- out foods may be, inevitably there seems to be a sameness -- the endless curls and squiggles of cold pastas, the curried or dilled chicken salads and the pans of wilting zucchini and string beans swimming in oil. Then there is the dominant flavor -- call it take-out -- owing perhaps to bottled dressings or sauces underseasoned to appeal to the mass palate. Gone are the idiosyncratic subtleties of family recipes...
...author's formula has become too predictable, however, and Hot Money is especially welcome because it offers a variation. No steamer trunks this trip, though as usual there are a few "ers" in the mixture, for flavor. Only the locked room of the mind (and the odd explosion) vex the hero, an amateur steeplechase rider named Ian Pembroke, as he puzzles out who is trying to murder his rich and autocratic father...
...political nuggets because they know the Governor has little interest. He reads few books but consumes the details of briefing papers. He is indifferent to movies. When friends last year urged him to watch a couple of highly praised films, Platoon and Hoosiers (they believed exposure to the Midwestern flavor of the latter might serve him well in the Iowa caucuses), no one was surprised that Dukakis returned the videocassettes unviewed. Recently staffers on the road arranged for him to see Moonstruck, a new film starring an actress cousin he likes, Olympia Dukakis, but he decided not to. Dukakis prefers...