Word: flavorings
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Zogby talked freely about the problems of using natural flavors. Real vanilla beans add flecks to the mix, and some customers used to the cheaper artificial flavor vanillin complain of dirty ice cream. Real mint flavor is as clear as gin, not green. A blend of pumpkin and squash tastes more like pumpkin than pumpkin alone does, but squash ice cream sounds dreadful, so the firm's flavorers had to work harder and stick with pumpkin. Most cherry ice cream contains bright red bits of cherries that have been embalmed, as maraschinos are-bleached white with formaldehyde and then...
Superpremium makers and feeders might take butterfat for thought from a test of 28 vanillas run a couple of Sundays ago by the Washington Star. Nine food experts, including Weiss, rated his own product fifth but decreed that Häagen-Dazs belonged in second place ("pleasing texture," "natural flavor," insufficient "oomph"). Frusen Glädjé was not tested; Alpen Zauber was far down the list, in the "puffy-fluffy, sweet-misery" category, having been rated "creamy but no taste," "salty." So were several other prestige brands: Sedutto's, Bassetts, Baskin-Robbins, Louis Sherry, Breyers and Schrafft...
...everyone swoons over Haagen-Dazs' Rum Raisin or rushes out to get Baskin-Robbins' flavor of the month (last month's offering: Condorman Crunch). Some gourmets prefer to make their own, some prefer what they find in the supermarket. TIME asked several notable ice-cream addicts to reflect on their favorite flavors. The answers...
...known last year that he was going to get married, we would have baked it last year." Avery hand-picked every cashew, cherry, walnut and currant for the cake in a two-day session code-named "Operation Sultana." He added a little Navy rum ("Just for flavor. You don't want people to get paralytic") and baked the largest layer for 8½ hours. The result, which was stashed behind a locked door at the Royal Navy Cookery School, measured out at 4½ ft. and 224 Ibs., 49 of which go for marzipan and ivory white icing...
...flavor, March of the Falsettos has an exhilarating champagne tang; in substance, it carries the weight of a cork. In an operatic mode, sans dialogue, Finn somewhat erratically unveils the bittersweet saga of Marvin (Michael Rupert), who divorces his wife Trina (Alison Fraser) to be with his male lover Whizzer Brown (Stephen Bogardus). As Marvin's owl-eyed young son Jason (James Kushner) puts it, "My father's a homo/ My mother's not thrilled...