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...teenager, Leonor Marquez led a fleet-footed unit of the Farabundo Marti National Liberation Front (FMLN) guerrilla fighters through the steep mountain passes of Perkin, El Salvador. "We were young and fast," Marquez, now 37, remembers. She and her comrades, who were known as "Las Samuelitas", were a fierce group of insurgents who might have been giddy junior high girls had they not been in El Salvador in the 1980s...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Guerrilla Tourism Helps El Salvador Heal | 11/18/2009 | See Source »

...army back in the '80s. On the short descent back to the revolutionary museum which houses the twisted carcasses of several attack helicopters downed by the guerrillas, she points out a crater where a 500-pound bomb was dropped by the army. Nearby is a bunker system used by FMLN rebels to escape those air raids. Back at the Perkin Lenca Lodge, Benito Chica takes out his guitar and plays revolutionary folksongs - the same ones he sang at the rebel camps two decades ago. (See TIME's photo-essay "The Gangs of El Salvador...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Guerrilla Tourism Helps El Salvador Heal | 11/18/2009 | See Source »

...Salvador's civil war officially ended with a peace accord in 1992. But this month marks the 20th anniversary of the conflict's last major battle, a 1989 FMLN attack on the capital San Salvador. As part of its counterattack, the Army murdered six Jesuit priests and two of their housekeepers; but the rebels' actions during that urban offensive, which killed scores of civilians and injured hundreds more, weren't particularly admirable, either. If the Route of Peace can help to keep Salvadorans, and foreign governments like the U.S., from repeating the mistakes of that dark decade, then it seems...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Guerrilla Tourism Helps El Salvador Heal | 11/18/2009 | See Source »

...founder, Roberto d'Aubuisson, sponsored death squads that terrorized the nation and assassinated its leading cleric, Roman Catholic Archbishop Oscar Romero, an outspoken champion of El Salvador's vast poor. But it is still widely regarded as the party of the wealthy, right-wing landed oligarchy targeted by the FMLN in the civil war, and under its tenure, the poor still feel marginalized. That's why the FMLN claimed 35 of 84 seats in January's national assembly elections and won Sunday's presidential poll...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: El Salvador's Left Wins with the Ballot, Not the Bullet | 3/16/2009 | See Source »

...Funes, who was a popular on-air reporter for CNN en Español before entering politics, those challenges could prove as daunting as waging war against a U.S.-backed government was for his FMLN forebears. It's still not clear how ready ARENA and its more hard-line backers are to accept Funes' narrow victory of 51% to Avila's 49%. But Avila's prompt concession was an encouraging sign that El Salvador will probably avoid unrest. And it was just as encouraging a signal that the country may have completed its evolution from a 20th century "tomb...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: El Salvador's Left Wins with the Ballot, Not the Bullet | 3/16/2009 | See Source »

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