Word: foie
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...fine diners really ready to swap their foie gras for eco-ethics? "Everything comes with a price," says Potts Dawson, who wants to lead by example. "Consumption is at a level now where restaurants need to stand up and be counted." Sure, ethical dining might leave a dent in your wallet, but it could ease the burden on your conscience. www.waterhouserestaurant.co.uk
...This isn't the diner." Diner has unfortunately become a pejorative term. And of course waiters from snooty high-end places sometimes put on airs. They start to feel that because they work in close proximity to money or power that they've got it themselves. They develop foie-gras taste on a liverwurst budget. They won't spend money on education or new shoes, but they'll spend $400 on going out to eat. And waiters and kitchen staff tend not to have great love for one another. The difference between the two groups is like the difference between...
Proprietor Julian Melck is one of the eighth generation of Melcks to farm this barren land, which his family first settled in 1770. He hosts extravagant dinner parties - foie gras, venison, malva pudding, set to robust reds from nearby vineyards - around a giant polished table at which he arranges guests with a view to conversation. Accommodation is king-size and regally furnished - leather armchairs, four-poster beds, wall-to-wall libraries - in a line of converted outbuildings. And with geese wandering down the dust avenue that runs between the buildings as horses nuzzle in their pens beyond, the view...
...alone. Dang's burger interpretations are very creative, and the quality of the ingredients and preparation have more in common with SoHo's better bistros than its fast food joints. The braised U.S. short-rib and truffle burger ($35) comes plated in an elegant open-faced tower of foie gras, green beans and shemeji mushrooms. The braised Wagyu oxtail and Iberian chorizo burger ($28), topped with Manchego and mushrooms, is slightly less rich, but presented with equal flourish...
...risotto. Across the quayside, top toque Martin Wishart has opened a designer cookery school, www.cookschool.co.uk, and a namesake restaurant on the waterfront, www.martin-wishart.co.uk, which he runs with his wife Cecile. Wishart's eclectic approach engenders dishes like haggis bonbons, chilled sweetcorn soup with basil sorbet, and pressé of foie gras and smoked pheasant with rhubarb curd...