Word: foie
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...Stephen Pass, vice president Macy's Marketplace in New York City, Americans are eating a wider variety all kinds of foods, and native fare is benefiting from that trend. Says Pass: "American jam isn't necessarily Welch's anymore. We're going back to small artisans. We get foie gras from the Catskills now. Years ago, I crried Stilton, Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Danish blue cheeses. Now I stock about 15 blues, and two are American. I have 20 chčvres, four from the Northeast and two from the West...
...actual dining area is very small—just two long counters and a few small tables at the back. There, a large glass refrigerator displays the shop’s spoils with no small amount of pride: house-made pates, foie gras, and a wide variety of cured meats. On a large wooden table, the restaurant displays other gourmet goods: jars of their sauces and accompaniments, including tomato confit and native cranberry confit, and a special array of Jean-Marc Montegottero virgin oils, pure distillations of pistachio, sesame, and other oils ($28 a bottle...
When something goes wrong in Heston Blumenthal's kitchen, it goes wrong in profoundly inedible ways. "Foie gras ice cream was probably a low point," says Blumenthal. "The fat crystals were too big, so the mouth feel was terrible. You could taste the sliminess. The smell wasn't lovely either." Of course, in Blumenthal's kitchen it's often hard to tell the difference between wrong and right. Among his signature dishes: snail porridge, salmon poached with licorice jelly and--after failed experiments with goose liver, parsley, garlic and other ingredients--smoked-bacon-and-egg ice cream...
...sampling molecules (which look like Pop Rocks candy and smell intensely of their source) and learning the chemical connections between them, Blumenthal was freed to go off on the creative jags he calls "flavor pairings." White chocolate and caviar, foie gras and jasmine, asparagus and licorice all have molecular commonalities that keep them from clashing and, when properly paired, can lead to electric new tastes. Any food scientist knows that mustard and red cabbage contain mustard oil, but it was Blumenthal who put in the endless hours that led to Pommery-mustard ice cream in red-cabbage gazpacho...
Back in China, though, Wu sees nothing but mycological possibility. In the past year, he has begun exporting his own truffle oil and is starting a canned--foie gras business using geese imported from Hungary. Now he's attempting to duplicate the soil and climate of southern France in his Yunnan fields. If he can create the correct environmental conditions, Wu believes Yunnan's plentiful land and low fixed costs will make him even more of a threat to the European truffle tradition. "Labor is very cheap here," Wu says. "In France they use pigs and dogs to find truffles...