Word: foie
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...burger has been around forever ... I wanted to try to give it a facelift," says Que Vinh Dang, executive chef at Duke's Burger, (852) 2526 7062, one of latest additions to Hong Kong's SoHo dining district. He's not the only one. Designer burgers - with the foie-gras toppings, sprinkled truffles and all the rest - have been popping up on menus everywhere these past few years. And there's already a cluster of better-class burger bars in Hong Kong. But Duke's Burger is by far the smartest (and newest) of them, and it offers a menu...
...alone. Dang's burger interpretations are very creative, and the quality of the ingredients and preparation have more in common with SoHo's better bistros than its fast food joints. The braised U.S. short-rib and truffle burger ($35) comes plated in an elegant open-faced tower of foie gras, green beans and shemeji mushrooms. The braised Wagyu oxtail and Iberian chorizo burger ($28), topped with Manchego and mushrooms, is slightly less rich, but presented with equal flourish...
...though they may be to showy p.r. stunts, social activists are nonetheless up in arms over this particular act of epic extravagance. The reason? The banquet comes with a pre-dinner commitment to what the Lebua's p.r. mavens have dubbed "emotional tourism." Hours before digging into truffles and foie gras, the 50 diners will fly by private jet to a village in central Thailand to see how impoverished Thais manage to get by without regular infusions of Brittany lobster and Bresse chicken...
...other night jobs: working for a pastry chef and doing culinary research for the food writer Joan Nathan. For one, she scaled batter and dough, working the 35-pound mixer and experimenting with decorating. For the other, she dove into 14th century French cookbooks looking for the origins of foie gras. (Turns out it may be a descendent of Kosher meat preservation techniques...
...became cool for famous chefs to make burgers in 2001, when Daniel Boulud, James Beard Outstanding Chef of the Year, opened his casual DB Bistro Moderne and sold a $27 hamburger: ground sirloin stuffed with braised short ribs, foie gras and truffles. As much as I love Boulud's cooking, I found it disgusting--a gooey mess of indistinguishable, nauseating fat. I was, once again, alone: it now accounts for 30% of the bistro's food sales. This year, Boulud, Bobby Flay (New York City's Mesa Grill) and Thomas Keller (French Laundry in Napa Valley, Calif.) are opening burger...