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...Despite the acclaim, Thompson still pounds the streets for inspiration. "Street food is not always purely Thai food," he tells me on a stroll through Bangkok, his second home after London. "It's often food that's been imported from other cultures and assimilated." Satay hails from the Malay-speaking world. Khao man gai, a popular chicken-and-rice dish, was introduced by 19th century immigrants from China's Hainan province; their descendants still sell it on Bangkok streets. Pad Thai, perhaps Thailand's most recognized dish, is also indebted to China. "It's Chinese noodles stir-fried, but with...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Sidewalk Smorgasbord | 2/1/2010 | See Source »

...Street food can also be deceptively complex to make, as Thompson's often dauntingly long recipes suggest. The one for rolled noodles with pork lists 30 ingredients, not including the chili sauce. The recipe for Thai cupcakes is, by my count, 1,059 words long. Another 278 words and you've got the Declaration of Independence. The book's detailed appendix reveals everything from how to choose, crack and eviscerate a coconut to tips on how to impart a subtle aroma to your satays (spoiler: apply coconut cream with a lemongrass-and-pandanus-leaf brush...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Sidewalk Smorgasbord | 2/1/2010 | See Source »

...trend. So many Thais now eat out that the culinary arts of their ancestors are neglected. Are they - gulp - forgetting how to cook? "I think some Thais are," says Thompson. "They're not forgetting how to eat." Nor are they forgetting how to read. One day, perhaps, Thai Street Food will become the definitive reference for Thais as well as foreigners. Where else will they learn that the best coconut cream is squeezed through muslin and that giant water bugs give fish sauce the most haunting of aromas...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Sidewalk Smorgasbord | 2/1/2010 | See Source »

...food trends...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Sidewalk Smorgasbord | 2/1/2010 | See Source »

...Yemen's strong traditions of honor and hospitality and its emerging red flags. As a foreign guest, I was given the one bed in the entire house to sleep in. Family members young and old slept shoulder to shoulder, huddled in blankets on the floor. Although there was little food to share, meat was always heaped onto my section of the communal plate. The ceremony was interrupted by rolling blackouts. Like most other things in Yemen, the guests explained, electric service has worsened this year. Much of the country is increasingly lawless and desperately poor; reserves of water...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: A Wedding in the Town of Al-Qaeda | 2/1/2010 | See Source »

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