Word: foodes
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...true, it doesn't make any sense at all," says Andrew Friedman, a food writer whose compelling study of last year's contest, Knives at Dawn, came out in December. "It's a leap of faith. First you take the leap, then decide it's something worth doing and then you get obsessed...
...into the business because they were creative and driven and wanted to do something special, and usually something more special than their peers. On the other hand, these wildly ornate, ultra-meticulous dishes are totally out of step with what diners seem to want now, which is simple food presented in a slightly elevated...
...produce towering showpieces like Kent's "Scottish salmon with osetra caviar and sauce Fumet Blanc garnished with roulade of salmon with king crab and meyer lemon relish, and chilled salmon mousse with salmon tartare and salmon roe" in the minimum time. "The people that win [Bocuse d'Or], their food is so over-the-top," says Kent. "The [Bocuse d'Or] dish needs to be a showstopper. It needs to make you go, whoa...
...behind them drives big-name chefs, who all want to be the person that elicits that breathless gasp of wonderment. It's ego, yes, but it's also the urge of any artist. It's why we're not still eating beef wellington and clams casino. It's why food matters now in a way it didn't 20 years...
...Josh Ozersky is a James Beard Award-winning food writer and the author of The Hamburger: A History. You can listen to his weekly show at the Heritage Radio Network and read his column on home cooking at Rachael Ray's website. He is currently at work on a biography of Colonel Sanders...