Word: forts
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...signs of creeping tourism even in my old neighborhood of Fort Cochin, a quiet, leafy enclave with stately mansions and grassy football fields. It's still leafy enough, and local laws have saved the mansions from real-estate developers, but all too many of the old houses have been converted into hotels and tourist lodges. There are also more shops selling antiques than I remember. The area around the Chinese nets has been paved, all the better for tourist photographers to place their tripods...
Buddha may still be weeping for this troubled land: certainly foreigners don't stay long in Galle anymore. The colonial mansions, the storehouses, the fort walls that jut south into the Indian Ocean echo more with the ghosts of visitors past. And like Zheng He, all trace of them, and of the hopes and ambitions they brought with them, is growing faint...
Still, Mombasa seems an unlikely place to settle. For me, its charms are antique: here the ruins of a once-mighty fort, there the shards of porcelain, reputedly from Zheng He's ships, that I find hidden in a dilapidated museum. As recently as the 1950s, seagoing freighters thronged to East Africa's largest port, off-loading boozy Western seamen and picking up African treasures. Today, as I stroll along the harbor, stevedores off-load shipments slowly - a languor born of chronic underemployment. Still, the Chinese come. "We Chinese can find business opportunities everywhere," grins Cen Haokun, one of three...
There was a flurry of media excitement last week when a tip suggested Chandra Levy's body was buried in Fort Lee, Va. The lead turned out to be bogus. For Chandra's mother Susan, it was an especially hard episode. "I'm not holding up very well," she tells TIME. "It's been a very rough week." Levy says both she and her husband Robert take sleeping pills and tranquilizers at night. "I'm often sick to my stomach. It's sheer terror." Still, Levy won't call for Gary Condit to quit. "Let the people decide for themselves...
...year. He's got English-language books, a Bible and American-style meals, but no cigarettes, TV or air-conditioning. He isn't allowed to speak or write to friends and family. His mother Arlene Jordan, who works in the engineering services department at the Army's Fort Eustis in Hampton, Virginia, says she used to chat with her son every week by phone, but hasn't communicated with him since his arrest. "Let's just say he is very far away from home," she tells TIME. Woodland can talk with his lawyers, two Japanese and one American. The American...