Word: frostbitten
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...Square, for the Yale game, for frostbitten fingers it's a Harvard...
...second part talks about the climbing of the mountain itself, and it is not funny at all. Twice the two men who finally surmounted the Butcher fell off, saved only by some extraordinary skill and guts. Both were severely frostbitten, one staking his life against the tentative Peruvian transportation network in a race to get his frozen feet under medical care. Both men spent a night huddled in a crevasse far up the 21,000 foot mountain, warmed only by the heat of a candle. Sack does a jarringly vivid job of describing first the fight to climb the mountain...
...Dave up short, painfully bruising and wrenching his ribs, and dragged Jim, ax and all, to within a foot of the brink. An hour later, Dave dragged himself back up. He and Jim found a cave in a crevasse and spent the night there. The feet of both were frostbitten, Dave's so badly that when he rapped them with his knuckles "the sound was hollow and wooden...
...Army has used two basic treatments. In one-the "let-alone method"-the frostbitten tissue is gently cleaned and dressed loosely. The patient gets 300,000 units of penicillin and an anti-tetanus injection, and is then evacuated to a hospital where he is kept in a room at 78° temperature and forbidden to smoke (smoking lowers skin temperature, slows down recovery by hampering circulation in the extremities). The second method follows most of the same rules but adds four injections a day of "frostbite solution"-250 ccs of alcohol, procaine, and, unless the man is wounded, the anticoagulant...
...frostbite cases. At base hospitals, nutritionists are checking soldiers' diets to determine the effect of vitamin C in frostbite recovery. In still other experiments, radar waves are being beamed at frozen arms & legs to find out how deep the injury goes; fluorescent dyes are being injected around frostbitten skin to discover the exact extent of the freeze. Both the radar and dye tests should help a surgeon to decide whether amputation is necessary, and if so, how much must...