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...stand here," admits Oriol Ibars, one of four partners in the Pazzta venture. Speaking reverently of the culinary cathedral he had visited each Saturday with his father from age two, he adds, "It was a far-fetched dream." By sheer luck they happened onto Don Jaime's fruit and vegetable stand when he had to put it up for sale, but they had to wait a full year to gain approval from the market's archaic administration - largely controlled by the local families who have sold produce here for more than a century - to change a produce stall into...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Heresies in a Culinary Cathedral | 7/27/2007 | See Source »

...years. It had been held by his family for four generations before him. But it was more than the name of the proprietor that changed when a family bereavement forced Ross to sell: What had once been yet another of the market's hundreds of bountiful fruit and vegetable stands was now devoted exclusively to selling squid-ink spaghetti, eggplant ravioli and other fresh pastas, served hot during lunch hours and in containers for home-cooking. Watching four young entrepreneurs in chef's jackets serving their guests paper plates piled with steaming pasta, Ross and other veterans of the Boqueria...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Heresies in a Culinary Cathedral | 7/27/2007 | See Source »

...eight centuries, the Boqueria has been a daily produce market, where today, still, neighborhood housewives poke at thick slabs of hake to test their freshness, and families come to choose fruit, vegetables and meats for their Sunday dinner. But in recent years, as hordes of tourists have swarmed under its iron roof each day, the Boqueria has become dotted with stands selling packaged goods (pre-cut watermelons wrapped with forks) or cooked food (pizza by the slice). To some purists, however, the replacement of a longstanding vegetable stall with Pazzta, the tile-and-chrome fresh pasta store, is a reminder...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Heresies in a Culinary Cathedral | 7/27/2007 | See Source »

...triumph for free expression nonetheless. And if the West hopes to see China become democratic as well as prosperous, it will have to find ways to encourage modest breakthroughs like these, rather than expect sweeping change. At the Gang Ji Restaurant, where the dishes have been cleared and fresh fruit and more tea brought in, the mood is reflective. "We are lucky compared to our parents," says Maria Zhang, who works as a membership manager in one of the capital's most exclusive clubs. "My parents had nothing themselves. They lived for me." Wang Ning, the snowboarder who runs...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: China's Me Generation | 7/26/2007 | See Source »

...pearls may also be a product of cheap labor. Japan's pearl farmers are organized into an umbrella association that sets prices and offers welfare to those who fall on hard times. By contrast, the Chinese producers are more vulnerable to exploitation: "Chinese farmers might as well be selling fruit or cattle," Cheng says. "Their only hope is to cover expenses. They have no idea how valuable their product can be and don't ask for higher prices...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: China's Pearl City, But for How Long? | 7/26/2007 | See Source »

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