Word: furred
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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Designers' colors for winter sound like a low-calorie diet-carrot, eggplant, prune, cherry and mint. Fabrics range from ordinary reversible wools, suede and leather to delicately worked jerseys, crepe, chiffon and much velvet. The favorite by far is fur-Maggy Rouff shows an all-beaver skirt, Patou an all-nutria dress, and Balmain (a sort of latter-day Gregor Mendel) crosses persian lamb with tweed for a hybrid stadium plaid...
Ivan the Terrible. Accessories are as full of movement as the clothes themselves. Hats are young and flattering, tend to frame the face instead of sweeping down to smother it. Ricci's "Ivan the Terrible" model is a fat acorn of fur, and Cardin's "Davy Crockett" curls an entire fox (in brown, red or black) around the head. Feet, as well as bodies, are treated considerately once more after seasons of cramping toes into shoes that darted into stiletto points or simply blunted off the second joints, the rounded-toe look is back-although Dior...
Romance, in high-fashion terminology, means marabou feathers and encrusted chiffon, sumptuous embroidery and lacy swansdown, and involves moonlight only as an adjective for blue and roses only if they bloom on fabrics instead of bushes. Fur and crocheted collars are conspicuous, as are capes: Eleanora Garnett smocks them for daytime, Fontana cuts them in satin and velvet for evening, Faraoni makes sleeves of them for narrow dresses. Romantic, richly worked evening gowns slink to floor length, Gattinoni's narrow satin gowns come with heavily beaded apron fronts, and Top Designer Micol Fontana offers a blue velvet ball gown...
...wool fringe on suits (by Pierluigi Trico) and enormous pompons on after-ski capes (by Lily Liuba) to colored felt "scoubidou"-like tassels* on ski sweaters (by Lida di Trepuzzi). Centinaro, who calls her line "Penguin" (the pouch-backed shape), shows shiny black spaghetti-fringe collars and olive-green fur linings. Albertina's boutique features knit suits and coats made without cutting or seaming and guaranteed to be sagproof, and Roland-who must have seen The Wild One-spotlights a skintight, all-black leather ensemble...
Hats & Trims are playing up fur. The pillbox may go back on the medicine-cabinet shelf (did Jackie overexpose it?) to be replaced by small, back-of-the-head berets of lizard and other exotic game, while furry cuffs and banding tone up the dresses. Fringed shawls in brocades, silks and satins are widely shown. Branell, among others, dresses up a daytime suit with mink...