Word: galeotti
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...first, he called himself a consultant and hired out his designing skills to such manufacturers as Ungaro, Zegna and Sicons. Armani kept busy at the drawing board, while Galeotti took care of business. By mid-decade, Armani had begun to attract local attention and a bit of international interest. Fred Pressman of Barney's recalls working with Armani in "an office no bigger than 14 by 14," crowded with one huge table and a few cane chairs used for everything from long business conferences to quick lunches. Bergdorf's Mello remembers "buying a collection of Armani...
Beginning usually with a sketch and a bolt of fabric, Armani will work out each of the 500 pieces he designs for his collections, most of which he will offer to buyers in a choice of three colors or fabric combinations. Occasionally, he will wrangle with Galeotti over the practicality of a design ("He will insist I've gone too far, that something is just not salable"), and often he sounds out staff members, whom he calls "my family." But all the designs, even his commissioned uniforms for the Italian Air Force, are Armani's. Unlike some...
...incidentally, to keep the balance sheets burgeoning-Armani is opening a string of shops called Emporiums, which will sell a full line of clothing significantly less expensive than his ready-to-wear. "The kids wouldn't buy an item only because it had the Armani label," Galeotti explains. "We had to meet their demands-and their price range." Four Emporiums are already open; by September, there will be nearly 50 others all over Italy. And only, for the time being, in Italy. Prices can be kept down because the items are produced in quantity and locally: this fall...
...apartment also contains an exercise room, a sizable stretch of bookshelf holding weighty volumes of everything from Erté's costume designs to Donald Duck's Uncle Scrooge ("Wonderful! My favorite! Uncle Scrooge is my partner! He's Sergio Galeotti!") and a bathroom with a tub of Carrara marble big enough for Shamu the Killer Whale. The tub, Armani's one concession to abject luxury, also turns out, perhaps significantly, to be impractical. "It is so big," he admits, "that the water gets cold before it fills...
Like many men without families, Armani has adopted his own, most of whom are employees of long standing who weekend with him at a converted farm house that he owns jointly with Galeotti, in Forte dei Marmi, about three hours' drive from Milan. The decoration there is a kind of bucolic adaptation of the Milan digs, with the same aquatic excess: in this case, an Olympic-size pool. For sun, and the summers, Armani, Galeotti and pals repair to a Moorish-style domed house on the island of Pantelleria, 50 miles off the coast of Tunisia, where nature...