Word: galliano
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...John Galliano, 36, a cheeky Spaniard brought up in London, was the toast of the SoHo fashion scene but unknown on the Avenue Montaigne when he took over Givenchy two years ago. A year later, Arnault moved him to Dior and plucked Alexander McQueen--even cheekier and younger, at 27--to guide the fortunes of Givenchy. At Louis Vuitton, a maker of fancy luggage and handbags that dates to 1854, he has hired an American, the young sportswear designer Marc Jacobs, to create a line of bags and sportswear to take on the chic of Gucci and Prada. Jacobs should...
...Fall ready-to-wear shows in Paris, the most important bazaar on the fashion calendar, were in full crush. At Dior, house of the very hot designer John Galliano, the props indicated that the young maestro had been thinking hard about a dreamland Orient. As the crowds tripped around the delicate bridge to nowhere on their way to find or steal seats, one conservatively dressed businessman waited quietly in the shadows. Galliano may get the attention, but, murmured Bernard Arnault, "I have...
Dior is the jewel in Arnault's crown, and he has entrusted the brash Galliano with polishing it. He says, "I love bringing young talents to the heart of an old house. Galliano has special links to Dior that you can feel: in design, style, romanticism and femininity. Of course, it is sometimes shocking--but fashion means something...
...Galliano's approach has been high drama all the way. For his part, Galliano is terse: "I think long term, and Mr. Arnault is thinking long term with me. He has given this place a complete dusting in the last couple of years"--presumably to make way for the young prince who Arnault believes will be a second Dior...
...McQueen sees himself as Givenchy's disciple, Galliano is wrapping himself in the tulle of Dior as "the designer I most respect in the 20th century. My own style is close to M. Dior's because of his romantic and hyperfeminine style." Each man has a point. The fashion industry hopes these newcomers will touch feminine fantasy the way the old masters did. But Galliano and McQueen also carry other legacies: the British spirit and the brash vitality of Central Saint Martins. That may work in their favor...