Word: galliano
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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Paris fashion is nothing if not international. The last Frenchman to enter the big time was Christian Lacroix 10 years ago. The king of the industry is Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld, who is German. But the headlines are now being made by two young Englishmen: John Galliano, 36, and Alexander McQueen, just 27. A charming, egregiously talented pixie of a man, Galliano took over the house of Givenchy last year but has already moved on to preside over Christian Dior, considered--along with Chanel--the most important French fashion empire. McQueen, an East Ender previously unknown outside the trendier London...
...couture establishment has had contradictory expectations for Galliano: he is seen on one hand as the man who would lead luxe into the 21st century and on the other as a misfit who could never measure up to exalted French standards. Last week's collection indicated strongly that Galliano belongs right where he is, but it was also uneven, the work of someone still learning a new game. The headliners were huge ball gowns, several of them striped in muted colors. Those who expected him to trash Givenchy's history were wrong. Among daytime clothes were several homages...
What put these established couturiers on their mettle was the arrival of a rank newcomer, British ready-to-wear designer John Galliano, 35, who took over last November as boss at Givenchy. Galliano posed a threat on a few fronts. Unlike most couturiers, he is a genuinely colorful character, a camera's darling who changes his entire appearance a couple of times a year. His fashion reputation is based on his rampant inspiration, his romps through costume history that turn archives into seductive, in-your-face clothes. His specialty is the slinky, tricky, bias-cut dress (cut across the grain...
...outfits, the collection seemed meager (Lagerfeld produced 84). Perhaps Galliano is simply a rigorous editor, but the kind of exhilarating riffs that Saint Laurent and Lagerfeld can spin out--six or eight variations on a theme--were missing. Least satisfactory was a foray into blatant color for evening. Harsh chartreuse-green silk spoiled a group of prettily shaped party dresses. Deep orange costumes suggesting India were more effective, but does one go to Paris for a sari...
...year-old designer as he presented his last haute-couture collection ever. He departed with class, as he arrived, playing classical music and sharing his standing ovation with his entire atelier. Givenchy hands the bodkin of his eponymous house over to 34-year-old English designer JOHN GALLIANO, not such a classical-music kind of guy. Recently, Givenchy's relationship with his backers has been strained, but the couturier is "a happy man," he told Le Figaro. "I am left with the joy of having had the most beautiful profession in the world...