Word: galliano
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...More subtle, but just as interesting, was the appointment of Slimane in the first place. Cerebral and reserved, Slimane couldn't be more dissimilar to Galliano, the buoyant, effusive man who has spent the last four years tearing down the image of Dior and rebuilding to fit a vision uniquely his own. Slimane achieved fame in fashion circles in 1996 with his sleek, sexy designs for the Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche men's label. His clothes are unique in men's wear-slim leather coats, narrow suits and sheer shirts-subtle and elegant pieces that focus more...
...While the Dior men's business was sleeping, women's has been rocking and rolling, forcing everyone around it to pay attention. Since 1997, Galliano has been working to create a house of Dior that is racy, loud and, most of all, fun. Where Hedi sees simple shapes, John sees lavish layers. Where Slimane sees minimalism, Galliano sees extravaganza. Galliano, the postmodernist, takes the world and its history as his inspiration-creating collections that revisit the aesthetic of, say, the Amazons or the trailer park, and presents them in a whole new light...
...Arnault's appointment of Galliano-the first of the so-called bad-boy British designers to invade Paris-to the House of Givenchy outraged many of couture's stalwarts. These included, ironically, Berg*, who saw the early collections as a death knell for haute couture. Others saw him as its savior-the man who could bring excitement, and maybe even paying customers, back to the parlors of the couture houses. Excitement? Headlines? Galliano got both in droves. After a year, Arnault promoted him to Dior and moved another British bad-boy, Alexander McQueen, to Givenchy, arguing that good press...
...Galliano's first collection for Dior coincided with the house's 50th anniversary. The 50 dresses he presented were inspired by Christian Dior, and the collection was deemed worthy of the house's reputation. Subsequent efforts-including the denim collection, the homeless collection and the S&M collection-baffled and even insulted many who wondered if there could possibly be a customer for these clothes. Rumors that Arnault would replace Galliano surfaced regularly. But instead, Arnault renewed Galliano's contract in 2000 and increased his responsibilities, granting him creative control over things like advertising and accessories. "The impact of these...
...Even Galliano's most outrageous stunt-dressing models in newspapers and bags as part of his homeless collection-failed to sway Toledano's faith in him. "Some haute couture people are doing stuff that's not creative," the executive sniffs. "They're doing ready-to-wear." In the days after the collection, Toledano met with the groups representing the homeless who had protested the show to explain to them the importance of creative freedom...