Word: galliano
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...designers were using fur. This year that figure is closer to 200. Giorgio Armani, Badgley Mischka and Carolina Herrera showed fur in their fall '98 collections either for the first time or after a long break, and fashion's current chief recipient of slavish admiration, John Galliano, did a whole fur line. (Oddly though, he outfitted his models to look like prostitutes.) In the early '90s when fashion magazines did fur shoots, the stylists asked that their names not be used. This year, every fashion magazine worth its scent strips had fur photos in its October issue, and W even...
...fall couture shows were prepared to say the outfits were ridiculous--as usual--some were prepared to say the women were nearly naked. Nipples were one of the biggest accessories, and definitely the least expensive. The mad lads from Britain--Alexander McQueen for Givenchy, far left, and John Galliano for Christian Dior, middle left--were up to their usual high jinks, but they were usurped in wackiness by even newer kids with scissors--Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, middle right. The Dutch duo, whose label is known as Viktor & Rolf, got to thinking about the millennium and showed an apocalyptic...
...arena in which the pure design of clothing receives life through the theatre of presentation. After a decade of subdued shows from "designer minimalists" such as Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, the world of fashion is welcoming back playfulness and drama with open arms, thanks to current wunderkids John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Wisely, theatricality was the focus of "The Return of Persephone," senior Louis E. Monoyudis's fashion extravaganza. Even those uninterested in fashion--the majority of the audience--got treated to a spectacle, for "Persephone" was less a creation of fashion than a recreation of the fashion show...
...they should have taken a big name. They did--but in music, not fashion." McCartney, despite her age (she is 26), was in fact no novice to garmentmaking. She had attended London's venerable Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, the alma mater as well of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen (designers also snatched up to oversee ailing French houses). For extra training during her school years, she served as a tailor's apprentice to learn the art of Savile Row suitmaking...
...nevertheless reserves a vocal distaste for the followers and creators of fad. "I'd rather look at some of the horrible things you see on the street than some of the horrible things you see coming from Paris at the moment," he says, referring to the theatrics of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. On the impact of grunge: "It was stronger than anyone wishes to admit." Beene believes the look led to an unceasing fascination with clunky, cumbersome footwear. "The one thing that could define this decade is those ugly shoes," he says. "I can only hope they disappear...