Word: galliano
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Dior by John Galliano cage sandal...
...soggy climes certainly have not dampened soaring couture fantasies. John Galliano gave the house of Dior a rocking 60th anniversary salute with an over-the-top high drama collection that included 45 supermodels, each decked out as a vision of an artist who had somehow touched Christian Dior's life and spirit. Linda Evangelista in an evocative deep wine taffeta dress a la Caravaggio. Naomi Campbell inspired by Alma-Tadema. There was a pink confection that looked right out of a Fragonard, Amber Valetta in pale blue, a portrait of Renoir. Each dress more elaborate and evocative than the first...
...spelled out in over-the-top details on snakeskin handbags or horse-bit-studded shoes and lavish, Vegas-style embroidery--appear to be allergic to sobriety. Gucci designer Frida Giannini turned to the 1940s and the gunmetal-gray palette of wartime heroines like photographer Lee Miller. For Dior, John Galliano tried on a reverential perspective, paying homage to giant clients like Ava Gardner with beaded satin entrance makers. In both cases, their studied opulence seemed to miss this moment's modernist beat...
...secrets to Robin's success is the informal style of his salon, where on any given afternoon Deneuve's head might be in the washbasin while John Galliano waits his turn and Kristin Scott Thomas checks in. Everyone is treated in the same way, and everyone is included in Robin's coffee-klatsch conversation. Like Robin's former salon, Autour stands at the back of a courtyard. "That business of clients sitting outside, talking and smoking will continue," Robin promises. Nevertheless, there is a secret side entrance for those avoiding the glare of paparazzi. (Both Robin and Gonzalez treat Isabelle...
...course, couture frocks don't have much impact these days, since they cost the same as a waterfront condo in Miami and their influence on lesser-priced lines has waned. But Galliano's ostentatiously uncommercial show was a statement in itself. With it, he thumbed his nose at relevance and the drive to get designers to inveigle their clothes onto the red carpet or to compete with the high-frequency deliveries at H&M. From the moment the first model stepped gingerly under a bow of blossoms in a fuchsia kimono jacket to the last sigh of a corseted bride...