Word: gallianos
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...arena in which the pure design of clothing receives life through the theatre of presentation. After a decade of subdued shows from "designer minimalists" such as Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, the world of fashion is welcoming back playfulness and drama with open arms, thanks to current wunderkids John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Wisely, theatricality was the focus of "The Return of Persephone," senior Louis E. Monoyudis's fashion extravaganza. Even those uninterested in fashion--the majority of the audience--got treated to a spectacle, for "Persephone" was less a creation of fashion than a recreation of the fashion show...
...they should have taken a big name. They did--but in music, not fashion." McCartney, despite her age (she is 26), was in fact no novice to garmentmaking. She had attended London's venerable Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, the alma mater as well of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen (designers also snatched up to oversee ailing French houses). For extra training during her school years, she served as a tailor's apprentice to learn the art of Savile Row suitmaking...
...nevertheless reserves a vocal distaste for the followers and creators of fad. "I'd rather look at some of the horrible things you see on the street than some of the horrible things you see coming from Paris at the moment," he says, referring to the theatrics of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. On the impact of grunge: "It was stronger than anyone wishes to admit." Beene believes the look led to an unceasing fascination with clunky, cumbersome footwear. "The one thing that could define this decade is those ugly shoes," he says. "I can only hope they disappear...
...from Karl Lagerfeld at the House of Chloe. McCartney had her own fledgling biz, but will work exclusively for the French label. It's not just her famous surname that got her the job. She studied fashion at London's Central St. Martin's College, which is where John Galliano (Christian Dior) and Alexander McQueen (Givenchy) learned their stripes...
...rakish, high-flying Galliano was a shock to the French system, Alexander McQueen was even worse, especially when his first show was a medley of British bad taste. Arnault is unworried: "His shows were original and surprising, full of ideas. It's not easy for a young designer to adjust to this world...