Word: gallianos
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...study Dior's own output in detail? But Bernard Arnault, whose LVMH owns both Dior and Givenchy, is betting his money that the route to a younger market--the new, galvanizing image that has evaded the old couture houses in recent years--lies across the Channel. For if Galliano is famous for his sizzling sense of romance, McQueen delivers exquisite tailoring and "kick-arse clothes." And both newcomers pack an intangible in their sewing kits: they radiate a genius, confidence and eccentricity that make people think they are on the brink of reinventing fashion...
...more specific source of the delicious insouciance that both Galliano and McQueen display may be the alma mater they share: London's Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design. It is easily the hottest fashion school in the world, a magnet not only for would-be designers but also for established masters looking to pick up fresh talent for their ateliers. CSM is not the only prominent fashion academy; Britain is known for its tradition of craft and in general supports artisans. But other schools tend toward commercial and technical values, emphasizing the set of a sleeve or production expertise...
...budge an inch on his ideals: "I have spent a large part of my time being picky. I like the fact that the competition here is very stiff." He is also focused on a celebrated school tradition: the graduation show. It draws an international gathering of fashion powerhouses. Galliano's success began there, as did McQueen's; their offerings were swooped up by buyers or magazines. Copley has similar dreams: "I have my fingers crossed that someone will buy my clothes at the show...
...since 1990. Not all the graduates can be represented in the show, and that is a bad blow to many. To stretch its faculty--and encourage the kids--the college calls back old grads, who work on a project basis. One is Bill Gayten, a cutter for Galliano. While novice tailors listen, he talks about the designer's famous bias-cut dresses, many of which he has worked on. Galliano demands toiles (patterns) not of traditional muslin but of the same fine fabric the gown will be made of, and will not look at a garment in progress unless...
...follower of fashion shows knows that the kids don't always do what their teachers tell them to. Galliano's snowy roofs and jungle walks are haute theater. McQueen has been known to moon on the runway, and his collection featuring the infamous bumster, jeans designed to bare the bottom, caused a sensation. In his latest London outing, he sank his catwalk under a few inches of water. The models maneuvered well, but when he took his bow, the maestro looked like a cat on a hot tinny puddle...