Word: gallianos
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...Fall ready-to-wear shows in Paris, the most important bazaar on the fashion calendar, were in full crush. At Dior, house of the very hot designer John Galliano, the props indicated that the young maestro had been thinking hard about a dreamland Orient. As the crowds tripped around the delicate bridge to nowhere on their way to find or steal seats, one conservatively dressed businessman waited quietly in the shadows. Galliano may get the attention, but, murmured Bernard Arnault, "I have...
...budge an inch on his ideals: "I have spent a large part of my time being picky. I like the fact that the competition here is very stiff." He is also focused on a celebrated school tradition: the graduation show. It draws an international gathering of fashion powerhouses. Galliano's success began there, as did McQueen's; their offerings were swooped up by buyers or magazines. Copley has similar dreams: "I have my fingers crossed that someone will buy my clothes at the show...
...since 1990. Not all the graduates can be represented in the show, and that is a bad blow to many. To stretch its faculty--and encourage the kids--the college calls back old grads, who work on a project basis. One is Bill Gayten, a cutter for Galliano. While novice tailors listen, he talks about the designer's famous bias-cut dresses, many of which he has worked on. Galliano demands toiles (patterns) not of traditional muslin but of the same fine fabric the gown will be made of, and will not look at a garment in progress unless...
...follower of fashion shows knows that the kids don't always do what their teachers tell them to. Galliano's snowy roofs and jungle walks are haute theater. McQueen has been known to moon on the runway, and his collection featuring the infamous bumster, jeans designed to bare the bottom, caused a sensation. In his latest London outing, he sank his catwalk under a few inches of water. The models maneuvered well, but when he took his bow, the maestro looked like a cat on a hot tinny puddle...
...McQueen sees himself as Givenchy's disciple, Galliano is wrapping himself in the tulle of Dior as "the designer I most respect in the 20th century. My own style is close to M. Dior's because of his romantic and hyperfeminine style." Each man has a point. The fashion industry hopes these newcomers will touch feminine fantasy the way the old masters did. But Galliano and McQueen also carry other legacies: the British spirit and the brash vitality of Central Saint Martins. That may work in their favor...