Word: gallianos
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Paris fashion is nothing if not international. The last Frenchman to enter the big time was Christian Lacroix 10 years ago. The king of the industry is Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld, who is German. But the headlines are now being made by two young Englishmen: John Galliano, 36, and Alexander McQueen, just 27. A charming, egregiously talented pixie of a man, Galliano took over the house of Givenchy last year but has already moved on to preside over Christian Dior, considered--along with Chanel--the most important French fashion empire. McQueen, an East Ender previously unknown outside the trendier London...
...study Dior's own output in detail? But Bernard Arnault, whose LVMH owns both Dior and Givenchy, is betting his money that the route to a younger market--the new, galvanizing image that has evaded the old couture houses in recent years--lies across the Channel. For if Galliano is famous for his sizzling sense of romance, McQueen delivers exquisite tailoring and "kick-arse clothes." And both newcomers pack an intangible in their sewing kits: they radiate a genius, confidence and eccentricity that make people think they are on the brink of reinventing fashion...
...more specific source of the delicious insouciance that both Galliano and McQueen display may be the alma mater they share: London's Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design. It is easily the hottest fashion school in the world, a magnet not only for would-be designers but also for established masters looking to pick up fresh talent for their ateliers. CSM is not the only prominent fashion academy; Britain is known for its tradition of craft and in general supports artisans. But other schools tend toward commercial and technical values, emphasizing the set of a sleeve or production expertise...
...couture establishment has had contradictory expectations for Galliano: he is seen on one hand as the man who would lead luxe into the 21st century and on the other as a misfit who could never measure up to exalted French standards. Last week's collection indicated strongly that Galliano belongs right where he is, but it was also uneven, the work of someone still learning a new game. The headliners were huge ball gowns, several of them striped in muted colors. Those who expected him to trash Givenchy's history were wrong. Among daytime clothes were several homages...
...outfits, the collection seemed meager (Lagerfeld produced 84). Perhaps Galliano is simply a rigorous editor, but the kind of exhilarating riffs that Saint Laurent and Lagerfeld can spin out--six or eight variations on a theme--were missing. Least satisfactory was a foray into blatant color for evening. Harsh chartreuse-green silk spoiled a group of prettily shaped party dresses. Deep orange costumes suggesting India were more effective, but does one go to Paris for a sari...