Word: gallos
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...meanest mobsters in the U.S. is a small, tight-lipped hood from Brooklyn named Joseph ("Crazy Joey") Gallo. In 1959, when he met Robert Kennedy, then counsel for Senator John Mc-Clellan's rackets-investigating committee, Crazy Joey examined Kennedy's office rug and offered his professional opinion: "It would be nice for a crap game...
...Gallo argues that the best way to boost wine consumption in the U.S. is to start the beginner off on the pints of 49? and 69? sweet wines for which he is famous. "Then," he explains, "after a couple of years, they'll be drinking a drier wine." Meanwhile, Gallo's judgment of the public taste results in the sale of millions of gallons of his artificially flavored Ripple, and Thunderbird-both spiked with...
...mass marketing tactics with apoplectic distaste. Says Wine Expert Brother Timothy of Christian Brothers, one of several winemaking religious orders: "Nothing is sacred in the wine industry. There was a time when tradition counted, but the revolution is here, and it would only be fair to say that Mr. Gallo started it." Grumbles Winemaker Louis Martini: "There should be federal laws to prevent Gallo from calling those flavored drinks 'wine.' It's a disgrace to the whole history of wine." Another Napa Valley man adds bitterly: "Caesar fell. Mussolini fell. Gallo will fall!" Retorts Gallo, his frozen...
...bulk of California production still goes into the sweet dessert wines such as port, sherry and muscatel, especially the cheap versions known as "Sneaky Pete" consumed by impoverished alcoholics ("Let's not call them winos," says Gallo, who sells a lot of such stuff). But the premium vintners are heartened by the fact that table wine is getting an increasing share of the total market. In 1957, for example, all U.S. vintners shipped 143.3 million gallons, of which 93.6 million were dessert wines and 40.8 million table wines. Last year, as total domestic shipments climbed to 152.5 million gallons...
Even the fine-wine producers will admit that some of the cheap table wines are sound value for their price. Gallo's Paisano, for example, is a passable vin ordinaire, even by French standards, and so is Petri's Viva Vino. For quality wines, the experts stick to the Napa Valley for reds, Livermore for whites and Sonoma for Rhines. Among the leaders: Louis Martini's Zinfandel and Folle Blanche, Inglenook's Cabernet Sauvignon, Wente Brothers' Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Chardonnay, Charles Krug's Camay and Camay Beaujolais. California's sparkling wines...