Word: garlic
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Older immigrant groups, most notably the Irishand the Italians, have a strong foothold in citypolitics. Hamilton remembers what used to betermed "Gaelic-Garlic" friction in the city'spolitical arena...
While most recent changes have been commendable, one change has not been for the better. HDS seems to have traded variety among its dishes for the more frequent presentation of such banal entrees as grilled chicken, barbeque chicken, fried chicken, chicken, parmesan, chicken fingers, chicken wings, chicken piccata, garlic chicken and General Wong's chicken. We like chicken, but enough is enough. After all, variety is the spice of life. Also, despite efforts to accommodate vegetarian needs, there has been a continuing lack of quality, nutrition and, most of all, variety among vegetarian options. HDS should make a goal...
...penetrate the domination of the tomato (that's right). The dish begs to be washed down by chewy bread (though the lacklustre bread should really have arrived at the table warm) and sips of sharp Chianti. A daunting tower of giant, succulent mussels are steamed in a classic, light, garlic-white wine sauce. The empty bowl offered for shells was nowhere near the capacity needed to account for the volume of sucked-dry detritus that remained after the mussels were finished. Empty mussel shells were scattered around the table like fallout, creating unsightly wet patches in the crisp white paper...
Jack's also offers a wide array of edible (and not-so-edible) products. Trick your friends over drinks with floating eyeballs or ice cubes containing bugs. Offer dinner guests a bagel with a "cockroach surprise" and for an after-dinner mint, give them a piece of garlic-, pepper-, hot- or sour-flavored chewing gum. Or perhaps some oh-so-refined mustard candy...
...same is true of the other entree, though the name alone is as much a mouthful as the end product. The grandiose "Rosemary and Black Tea Smoked Lamb Loin with a Spicy Eggplant Salad and a Roast Garlic Vereniki" ($19.50), gives little indication as to what the dish will actually taste like. Smoking the lamb is an unlikely method of preparation, but it works well--especially with the vague resonances of black tea, and the eggplant salad has a surprising tartness and spice which keeps the smoked meat from becoming monotonous...