Word: garment
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...York City's garment district had never seen anything like Willi Smith's fall fashion show. Put together for a Seventh Avenue firm called Digits, Smith's fall line-up eschewed traditional blues, browns and grays in favor of the baby pinks, brilliant yellows and other bright pastels usually reserved for spring. To top off the show, Smith's 19-year-old sister Doris diddy-bopped out in a 1972 bridal outfit: a strapless white Lurex gown worn with a white fake-fur jacket and a gauzy veil with a feather stuck in the side...
There was always plenty of work for black people in the garment center, almost all of it menial. But black designers were rare-and might still be had not the garment district been in economic doldrums for the past few years. To recapture the interest of hip young customers, the moguls of the apparel industry have been turning to younger designers, both black and white-and, some blacks say, ripping off the flamboyant styles that have long been part of ghetto life. Says Susan Taylor, black fashion editor of Essence magazine: "I could swear that the white folks on Seventh...
...Bolt. Sewing machines now do practically everything but press the finished garment. Dial a knob or change a foot and your machine can sew on buttons or make flawless buttonholes. Machines can also darn socks, embroider blouses and monogram pockets as well as baste, hem and stitch once "impossible" materials like leather and stretchable knits. In addition to all this, Singer's expensive Touch & Sew model ($439.95) has solid-state speed control enabling it to breeze through varying thicknesses of fabric without being reset. Today, however, many inexpensive machines (about $60) offer zigzag, hemming and stretch stitches plus...
...important than having quality in much of merchandising," says Carl Livingston Jr., president of Livingston Bros, specialty shops in San Francisco. A manufacturer caught in the revolving door of fashion often has to settle for fabrics and workmanship that he would otherwise reject. Because of rising labor costs, more garments are being put together piece by piece on assembly lines, and fewer are hand sewn. Says Designer Anne Klein: "When a worker works on only one section of the garment and not from the beginning to the end, he cannot have pride in his creation. He cannot feel fulfillment...
...addition, the garment industry has long depended on the skill of immigrant tailors and seamstresses. Now the Old World craftsmen are aging, and clothing makers have trouble finding replacements...