Word: gault
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...wittiest, if not the surest, books are the Gault/Millau guides (Crown; $11.95 each) to Paris, London, New York and France. The work of two dedicated French cuisinartistes, to whom a badly cooked meal is a personal, nay national, affront, Henri Gault and Christian Millau's assessments of hotels and restaurants are unfortunately often more informed with high passion than sound taste. More reliable is the august Guide Michelin, long the three-starred supreme arbiter of hotels, restaurants and touring, not so much written as compiled as if by God himself...
...water. Attendants also take care of all passport formalities. The bubbly flows. People meet and chat easily. The meals, whipped up in a space hardly bigger than most apartment kitchens, include dinner and a next-day brunch. They would probably earn the rolling restaurant one toque in the Gault-Millau Guide. After dinner, Chef Ranvier gives one impressed guest his recipe for le foie gras de canard cuit naturellement. At brunch, rocketing through the broad plains of northern Italy, there is an exceptional dish of small chickens with Albufera sauce. The wine cellar on wheels is more than adequate...
Thus far, there is only one mouche in the onguent: the hotel's premier restaurant, supervised by the renowned chef Jacky Freon and set partly in a breathtaking patio garden, has yet to stir much enthusiasm among Parisians. Though it has a 16 (out of 20) rating from Gault et Millau, the authoritative Paris columnists (awarded before the hotel opened), other critics have found the restaurant memorable mostly for the Mozart played by a string trio at mealtimes. In any event, despite Halt's philosophy ("A guest should never have to stir outside his hotel"), Paris...
...Gault and Millau, as you know, publish the monthly food and travel magazine Le Nouveau Guide as well as a feisty annual guide to French restaurants, which sometimes makes Michelin's comments seem like soggy croissants. Oh, mes chers, what G-M have to say about l'Amérique is not what you have read in Tocqueville! You will be among a record number of French visitors to les Etats-Unis this year-estimated at 450,000-and should come prepared...
...course, mes chers, you will stay away from such spots and follow Gault-Millau to the very special places of New York and, indeed, l'Amérique. Say your prayers and hope that André Soltner may accommodate you at Lutèce, by any measure one of the world's finest French restaurants. The authors rate equally high The Four Seasons, where vraiment the courtesy, the ambience, the efficiency as well as the food are "an amazement." Be adventurous like your French ancestors there: cross the bridge and dine in le vrai Brooklyn, at the Continental...