Word: gaultier
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...past 14 years without attracting a commotion. Gigli is looking for an imprimatur, separating himself from the excellent elegances of Milan in favor of the more experimental company in Paris. The intrepid Japanese designers show their stuff in Paris; so do the haut trendies like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana. The company is faster there than in Milan, where Giorgio Armani, Italy's premier talent, casts a very long shadow indeed. "Presumptuous," is the way Armani characterizes Gigli's move, adding, "He may want to be international, but his move is premature...
...talent: dazzling designers (like the Missonis), some fine hands (like Gianfranco Ferre) and some naughty boys (like Gianni Versace). But, in Armani, it produced just a | single world beater. Paris, on the other hand, can still offer a wider spectrum: sumptuous Saint Laurent, engaging Lagerfeld, generative Miyake, fast-flash Gaultier, ebullient Patrick Kelly. As ever, it is center stage, the arena on which designers want most to play, especially if they are coming on (like Gigli) or consolidating (like Valentino...
...current designs, however, convention is also playing a fast game of footsie with pragmatism. There are indications that the Dirker may be working toward an accommodation with the mainstream. He has recently struck a deal with the established Italian manufacturer GIBO, which handles such successful lines as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Sybilla. Where the Dirker comes down heavy on prankishness, Sybilla tends to the winsome and the ingenious. Her clothes are mostly hand finished and full of little surprises, like tucks that form boxes or a hem that looks to have been pushed up for a hasty jump across...
There can be adverse reactions to these champagne clothes, and not everyone is hopping aboard Lacroix's bandwagon. His outfits are not for the dress-for- success crowd -- only for those who have succeeded. Then there are the enthusiasts of top ready-to-wear designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana and several of the Japanese, all intellectual, all looking toward futuristic silhouettes. To them, Lacroix is a crashing irrelevance. Alan Bilzerian, owner of two au courant shops in Massachusetts, who heavily backs the Japanese, writes Lacroix off briskly: "It's like a foul ball; he hit it over...
...hardest kind of criticism to do convincingly. But there is something of the fashion dictator in her as well. Armani is described with appropriate accuracy and awe, but he is the only Milanese included. Ignored as well are whole ranks of French headliners, including Claude Montana and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and the British radical Vivienne Westwood, a perennial darling of the fashion press...