Word: gaultier
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...stardom and materialism the major theme of her new CD, Ray of Light (Maverick/Warner Bros.) should rightly make thinking people pause. Didn't she, from the very start, insist that we love her, demand that we worship her golden calves, her exposed iconic midriff, her conical Jean-Paul Gaultier bras? Didn't she, Marilyn-like, pursue the starring role in Evita, and Hollywood thespianhood in general, with .45-cal. ambition? Wasn't that she on the back cover of her 1992 shock-pop album Erotica sucking on some stranger's foot? Isn't she the original Material Girl...
...commercial photographs upstairs. Sherman, easily one of the most important photographers of the past fifteen years, photographs herself in various guises ranging from ingenue to Bacchus. In "Untitled #282," she lies before us in an outlandish, semi-transparent gauze dress by one of Madonna's favorite designers, Jean-Paul Gaultier. Her legs are slightly spread, but the voyeuristic gratification usually afforded us by such images is denied by our recognition of the opaque, flesh-toned tights which ascend from a seam at Sherman's toes. Here, Sherman subverts the salacious gaze that Ritts' photographs of naked male or female models...
...fashion world went into shock. Why not a top French designer like Jean-Paul Gaultier to assume the Givenchy mantle? Or if it had to be a foreigner, why not Vivienne Westwood, a more experienced Brit, who has shown in Paris for years and even troubled to study Dior's own output in detail? But Bernard Arnault, whose LVMH owns both Dior and Givenchy, is betting his money that the route to a younger market--the new, galvanizing image that has evaded the old couture houses in recent years--lies across the Channel. For if Galliano is famous...
...major!" gushes Polly Mellen, creative director of Allure. The result could be trivial if director Douglas Keeve were not also focusing on Mizrahi's gathering nerves. The low point comes when a staffer brings in a copy of Women's Wear Daily that headlines the latest from Jean-Paul Gaultier, the tallest tree in Mizrahi's particular sector of the fashion forest. Gaultier's revelation? Eskimo chic. Mizrahi throws the paper on the floor...
...Even designers who usually make well-cut, wearable clothes, like Donna Karan, get the fever. In her DKNY show, the city girl went western, featuring dubious slinky pants with a phony chaps look, crinoline-shaped frontier skirts and hats that were at least seven gallons. In Paris, Jean-Paul Gaultier, perennial idol of the fashion press, indulged in one of his toughest tart looks ever. Each of his models had one eye blackened, and sullen stares seemed to be a decree. Some of them wore cyberspace-punk bodysuits printed with computer graphics. Still, draped over them were practical coats...