Word: gaultier
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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Balmain's choice apparently signals a decision to keep its middle-of-the- road image. There are young French designers who look more to the iconoclastic creations of Jean-Paul Gaultier or Gianni Versace, others who are openly nostalgic for the glories of the past. Balmain's new man is unlikely to plunge in either direction. His talent lies in translating the traditional into the distinctly contemporary. He emphasizes wearable clothes, however luxurious they may be. If Balmain wants to catch up to the 1990s without leaping into the 21st century, the house made a very shrewd choice...
...wore a Jean-Paul Gaultier dress made all of rubber," she said...
With patterned tights all the rage, this should be the most colorful summer in a long time. The fall will see cashmere leggings (tights without a foot), in cable knits, wools and especially in velvet. Jean-Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld, French fans of tights, are emphasizing the leg. So is the hot young American designer, Isaac Mizrahi, who dismisses the '80s as a time of "boring, rote, dress-for-success looks with stock-tie blouses, flannel jackets and henny-looking long, drab skirts...
True to its theme of emotional cannibalism in a dead-end society, The Cook has plenty of eating and excreting. Its characters, sad creatures swathed in Jean-Paul Gaultier couture, gorge on their own swollen hunger for sex, control, revenge. Similarly, Greenaway -- inspired by Jacobean revenge plays and Dutch masters' paintings -- stuffs the viewer with ripe images and raw language. He tests your appetite for intelligent sensation. For many it may be a daunting test, but it is worth taking. Elegant and rancid, this movie rates an X as in excellent...
Perhaps the most remarkable bit of stagecraft in Paris came not from Margiela or Gaultier but from Valentino, who sent a couple of models out carrying briefcases. Not many firms would classify their outfits as dress-for- success mainstream, but it was a nice thought. In fact, a businesswoman or a middle-of-the-road matron can find places to squander cash this year, especially since manufacturers often ship their products with longer lengths, leaving it to stores or customers to chop or not. Lacroix kept his dazzlement to color instead of radical shapes, and at Dior Milan's Gianfranco...