Word: gaultier
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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Yohji Yamamoto opened his presentation with dark, brooding outfits that were more like costumes: long belled skirts with heavy wool redingotes. In outline they had the eerie drama of displaced time. And, lest anyone miss the point, the impudent Jean-Paul Gaultier used a few cartoon wigs complete with pompadour and side curls -- in bright orange and electric blue...
...happy hosiery manufacturers must be! Some of the liveliest clothes on view were boldly patterned bodysuits and tights. Christian Lacroix, in his strongest ready-to-wear collection yet, had the best and most vivid. Gaultier made them a major theme, combining glittery threads with tweedy textures and flaunting second-skin bodysuits patterned with strategically positioned bull's-eyes...
...Gaultier made a stylized bow to the East as well, but his heavy personal stamp all but obliterated his source material. Disdaining the Louvre, he rented a steaming cellar on the Champs-Elysees, and it was packed with fans who relish his theatrics at least as much as his clothes. The outfits were a tantalizing mix of the shrewd and salable and the ridiculous, and this season's leading outrage was a bodysuit opened all the way down the rear. Catherine Deneuve, the ranking celebrity guest, even removed her sunglasses to | take...
...past couple of years, Gaultier's spectacles have been upstaged by those of a former employee, Martin Margiela, the current darling of the avant- garde. For his show, Margiela, 31, rented an old railroad station now used as a truck depot. The scene outside resembled a hot disco, with a bouncer deciding who of the throng would...