Word: gaultier
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...Even designers who usually make well-cut, wearable clothes, like Donna Karan, get the fever. In her DKNY show, the city girl went western, featuring dubious slinky pants with a phony chaps look, crinoline-shaped frontier skirts and hats that were at least seven gallons. In Paris, Jean-Paul Gaultier, perennial idol of the fashion press, indulged in one of his toughest tart looks ever. Each of his models had one eye blackened, and sullen stares seemed to be a decree. Some of them wore cyberspace-punk bodysuits printed with computer graphics. Still, draped over them were practical coats...
More compelling are the case studies from history and literature presented in "Acute Intoxication-Literary Reports." Grinspoon includes everything from Theophile de Gaultier's observations of "a multitude of bodiless heads like cherubims, with such comical expressions" to Alan Ginsburg's musings on the benefits of snibidish, all vigorously footnoted...
...multi-course feast. If you're the kind who rises early on Saturday mornings to watch "Style" with Elsa Klensch, you'll gorge yourself with celebrity sightings, feeling very in-the-know when you recognize Sonia Rykiel's signature red hair across a crowded room. However, those who think Gaultier is a sort of scruffy beard will find "Pret-a-Porter" about as filling as a stingy hors d'oeuvre tray...
...chronicler as cynical as this one. Anyway, a cynic is what it got during the industry's big pret-a-porter shows in Paris last spring, when Altman mingled with the modish elite and found room in his film for many of them: designers Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier and Issey Miyake, models Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington and CNN fashion maven Elsa Klensch...
...good-time girls, gold-toothed bikers and punks. The economic boom of the '80s, in which Japan's assets grew 80% in just four years, produced, Greenfeld suggests, a new generation of cheap operators and rich hedonists. As young, hip and plugged-in as his subjects -- he knows every Gaultier accessory and Ruger pistol -- Greenfeld provides a racy, knowing portrait of the people who are usually cropped out of the country's official portrait of itself...