Word: gaultiers
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Sander's spring 1995 collection, wrote Women's Wear Daily, "showed Milan how women should dress -- with subtlety and elegance." Unlike so many other designers (including Jean-Paul Gaultier, who staged his latest show amid carousel horses and a pet rat), Sander does not approach fashion as performance art. In Milan, on an unadorned runway, she presented quiet, knee- length dresses that were refreshingly unclingy, soft jackets and billowing pants in glimmering cottons, a faint blue A-line suit so purely sophisticated that it is something Catherine Deneuve could have worn...
...press conference she explained that since no one has seen a god or a giant or a dragon, she had to create them from her imagination. In fact the sources are painfully clear. Some influences are evidently classical -- warriors all wear plastic breastplates. Unfortunately they suggest Jean-Paul Gaultier's Paris more readily than ancient Athens. More striking are the costumes containing Oriental references. They make the wearers appear larger -- read fatter -- than they are, a particular pity with a fit and youthful-looking cast. The inspiration seems to have come from Issey Miyake, a master at making small figures...
Jean-Paul Gaultier first made a corset-like bustier for Madonna four years ago, and it was a good joke. Now further variations of underwear as outerwear have overtaken the runways. So have other tired gambits, which can only encourage a woman to stay out of the stores and wear what she already has in the closet. The metallic look is suffering from fatigue, but it's still in favor. And nobody looks good in disheveled fake fur, now everywhere. The effect is to present a woman as an unclipped poodle who just swam a stream and had a good...
...anyway. His movies are always really nice looking with lots of bright colors. That one actress he uses, the one with the crooked nose, has a weird and compelling face worthy of Fellini. She will be in the new movie, whose title we can't remember. Even better, Gaultier and Versace will be doing the costuming. Caramba...
...Sunday, we paid another visit to directress/raconteur Erica Werner in her faux-Titian dorm room. Outside it was cold and dreary, but inside we found Ms. Werner in fine fettle, cooing merrily at her Bonsai tree. Clad in a chain-metal sheath and matching elbow-length gloves, both by Gaultier, with hair by Vidal Sassoon, Ms. Werner discoursed savvily on topic ranging from the Knights Templar to the common cold. As always, we were impressed by her smarts. But we were not where we were--that is, in the presence of genius disguised as high fashion--to engage in idle...