Word: gaultiers
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Yohji Yamamoto opened his presentation with dark, brooding outfits that were more like costumes: long belled skirts with heavy wool redingotes. In outline they had the eerie drama of displaced time. And, lest anyone miss the point, the impudent Jean-Paul Gaultier used a few cartoon wigs complete with pompadour and side curls -- in bright orange and electric blue...
...happy hosiery manufacturers must be! Some of the liveliest clothes on view were boldly patterned bodysuits and tights. Christian Lacroix, in his strongest ready-to-wear collection yet, had the best and most vivid. Gaultier made them a major theme, combining glittery threads with tweedy textures and flaunting second-skin bodysuits patterned with strategically positioned bull's-eyes...
...Gaultier made a stylized bow to the East as well, but his heavy personal stamp all but obliterated his source material. Disdaining the Louvre, he rented a steaming cellar on the Champs-Elysees, and it was packed with fans who relish his theatrics at least as much as his clothes. The outfits were a tantalizing mix of the shrewd and salable and the ridiculous, and this season's leading outrage was a bodysuit opened all the way down the rear. Catherine Deneuve, the ranking celebrity guest, even removed her sunglasses to | take...
...past couple of years, Gaultier's spectacles have been upstaged by those of a former employee, Martin Margiela, the current darling of the avant- garde. For his show, Margiela, 31, rented an old railroad station now used as a truck depot. The scene outside resembled a hot disco, with a bouncer deciding who of the throng would...
Perhaps the most remarkable bit of stagecraft in Paris came not from Margiela or Gaultier but from Valentino, who sent a couple of models out carrying briefcases. Not many firms would classify their outfits as dress-for- success mainstream, but it was a nice thought. In fact, a businesswoman or a middle-of-the-road matron can find places to squander cash this year, especially since manufacturers often ship their products with longer lengths, leaving it to stores or customers to chop or not. Lacroix kept his dazzlement to color instead of radical shapes, and at Dior Milan's Gianfranco...