Word: gaultiers
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CLOTHES. I like to combine things but in a humorous way, like a uniform skirt and fishnets. Sometimes I like really expensive things. I like Vivienne & Westwood, Commes des Garcons and Jean Paul Gaultier. But I get a lot of stuff in thrift shops too. I really love dresses like Marilyn Monroe wore, those '50s dresses that were really tailored to fit a voluptuous body. A lot of stuff made now is for an androgynous figure, and it doesn't look good on me. I have always sort of elaborated with my dance clothes. I used to live...
...sketches and fits, he listens to music-from vintage Rolling Stones to the short-circuited post-punk epiphanies of Public Image Ltd.-and he sees his work as an extension of the same creative impulse that set him to struggling with those Xeroxes back in the '70s. For Gaultier, on the other hand, fashion is a little more whimsical, a tap-source into personal fantasy. "I don't try to do art," he says. "I don't know how to do sculptures. All I propose are currents, what people want. It's not an intellectual approach...
...Gaultier, who admits readily enough that "I'm a rocker," is nevertheless adamant that his clothes are not meant to appeal to only a single age group. Just as his inspiration careens crazily from Dickens' London to today's King's Road, he wants his clothes worn by anyone who likes "playing with clothes, taking from them what interests you, no matter what the origins." In fact, as most store buyers know, a Gaultier collection is made up of about equal parts of eye-grabbing eccentricities and conventional ideas, "classics with different proportions. A young person...
...18th birthday, Gaultier landed a job with Cardin, for whom he designed a 1974 collection destined for the American market. He sets the same kind of creative atmosphere that he found at his former patron's, where "everything was permitted." Most of his small staff are just out of lycee and brimming with ideas; others are friends of long standing; none is over 32. Gaultier may be an iconoclast, but he has a deep and sometimes surprising respect for other designers. One would expect him to "adore" Vivienne Westwood, the earth mother of punk fashion. But Gaultier also "adores...
...Gaultier often refers to "the game of the clothes." If there is in fact such a recreation, then he and Sprouse have been instrumental in revising the recent rules of play. Acting cagey, Sprouse says he has "this whole new idea for fall." Gaultier's current collection suggests he can flout convention even while crazy. Natch-rally crazy. Yes, indeed. -By Jay Cocks...