Word: gelati
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...slice of home. Chocolate-chocolate chip is still tops: so rich, they named it twice. Gelateria (Mt. Auburn St.): This new-wave addition to the list of summer palate-coolers may not be stealing the ice cream clientele, but it's an interesting alternative. Real Italian Gelati (richer and fruitier than ices, less rich and creamy than ice cream), and the prices are even steeper than the chic ice cream parlors
...skin of the teeth from the ravages of tide, effluent, mass sightseeing and economic slump. One's awe at Piazza San Marco is mingled with pity and even impatience, and the child in the tourist impertinently wonders how soon the whole peeling confection, gold, Istrian stone, gelati and all, will be swallowed at last in the lagoon...
...Beverly Hills, Marina del Rey, Studio City and other communities. Some of the stores, notably the dozen or so high-tech outlets owned by the San Francisco-based Gelato Classico chain, cannot meet the demand. Some, like A1 Gelato in Elmwood Park outside Chicago and the art deco Gelati per Tutti on Hollywood's trendy Melrose Avenue, have become landmarks, packing in the pilgrims as thick as the product. In hundreds of supermarkets, brightly colored gelato containers nestle next to such top-of-the-line American brands as Breyers and their pseudo-Scandinavian cousins, Häagen-Dazs...
...prices can be deceptive. A pint of Baskin-Robbins at $2.35 contains 50% air. Tartufo's gelato at $2.49 has 9% air. Most of the gelati are made with expensive imported equipment and costly ingredients, such as vanilla extract at $55 a gallon. Some of the recipes call for painstaking manufacture. The Geláre mix is quickly cooled, "aged" in tubs, churned and finally frozen to 20° F below zero over a 24-hour period...