Word: gelato
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When making the perfect gelato, much depends on the size of the ice crystals. Most amateur chefs do not have the machinery to churn out - literally - the creamy consistency that is the hallmark of a great gelateria. But with an old-fashioned ice-cream maker, a good recipe, and a good understanding of the basic gelato rules (sugar is an anti-freeze, fats act as the opposite), the home chef can make gelato at home...
...make anything into gelato," says Maestro Gianpaolo Valli, of Bologna's Gelato University, the six-year-old educational offshoot of the Carpigiani company, which produces a majority of the world's gelato machines. In Valli's more than 20 years as a gelato master, he has acquiesced to some rather strange requests, including creating a tasty salmon gelato, a pesto gelato for an Indian chef and three different kinds of beer gelato for a German gelateria. An aspiring Dutch gelato maker in a recent class at Gelato U. suggested that she might like to learn how to make hash-flavored...
...strangeness of Venice, where the aesthetic beauty is overwhelming until one realizes that the whole city seems to be set up for the amusement of outsiders. Hot and bothered middle-aged parents shuffle their young children along, filling their hands with glass bobbles and Carnival masks. They eat gelato and large margarita pizzas; they wait an hour in line to see the Doge’s palace and listen to one of the many tuxedoed string quartets in San Marco play Vivaldi (though they prefer it when the quartets strike up The Sound of Music). They say they have seen...
...thought. “Someone should tell him this is not okay.” It’s embarrassing; it should be tucked behind dozens of Roman Holiday calendars. Let’s sell the tourists black-and-white photos of Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck eating gelato, not images of Mussolini inspiring false and dangerous notions of Italian greatness through racism...
Across the bridge, near Grand Central Station, the brand-new Golosi (Italian for "gluttons"), which opened in April, serves pizza along with its most beloved Italian cousin, gelato, in 28 house-made flavors - including the creamy, addictive nutella. The pizza "pies" are shaped like small surfboards, with crusts mixed from imported Neapolitan flour and sinful strutto, a rendered pork fat. Once sauced and baked, they're sold by the inch - 99 cents to $1.50 per inch, three-inch minimum. Early hits include the mozzarella-only Biancaneve...