Word: genoa
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When allied troops were in Genoa after World War II, MPs painted the words OFF LIMITS on some of the streets downtown in an effort to keep soldiers away from the city's petty thieves and prostitutes. Not much has changed since: some of the tiny alleys in the old part of this medieval port city, while picturesque, are best avoided. If you know where to go, you can still enjoy memorable shops and museums in Genoa--even if you're one of the thousands of business and government executives who will be joining President Bush and other heads...
Portofino can be reached by car or taxi (about $50 each way from Genoa, but negotiate the fare in advance). Ask the driver to take you to the main square, Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta. Start your visit with a coffee or cocktail at La Grippa, a waterfront bar well situated for watching handsome strollers drawn by such nearby shops as Armani and Celine. But don't linger too long. Head for the town's friendly information office at Via Roma 35, just behind the piazza, and get maps for a bracing walk along the shore. A short path, 20 minutes...
...spare half a day for Portofino, you can still enjoy Genoa's art, architecture, sweets and shopping. Start with the 12th century Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the nearby Chiesa del Gesu, which houses two paintings by Rubens. A major exhibit of paintings and manuscripts, "Travel in Italy: a Magic March from the 1500s to the 1900s," at the Palazzo Ducale through July 29, features works by Michelangelo, Raphael, Tiepolo, Titian and other greats. On Via Garibaldi, you will find both the Palazzo Bianco and the Palazzo Rosso, two museums with excellent collections of Flemish and Dutch paintings...
...radical anticapitalist with a weakness for black masks and tear gas, you'll love Genoa in July. The Italian city's old quarter is full of dark, winding alleys--perfect turf for antiglobalization protesters who hope to turn next month's G-8 summit into another spectacle of window-smashing mayhem. Genoa's police are mulling ways to forestall the kind of violence that erupted in June at the European Union confab in Sweden. Government officials nixed proposals to stage a floating summit in Genoa's harbor, but they have summoned American experts to train local police in "crowd control...
...doubt this week's conference - and next month's confab of G8 leaders in Genoa - will see other nations stepping forward with new pledges, although many medical and development professionals fear that much of this money may simply be redirected from other aid programs supported by the wealthier countries. Despite the fundraising targets set by the U.N. on the basis of extensive research into the state of AIDS programs worldwide, few expect that it raise much more than 10 or 15 percent of those targets initially...