Word: gianfranco
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...want to play king. Says Armani: "If the press is going to shout so much about my 18-in. skirts, I shall renounce paternity." In one sense he already has: all his skirts will be shipped to stores at knee length, leaving the exact specifications up to the purchaser. Gianfranco Ferre, who showed minis, thought the whole fuss was show biz. Said he: "I keep the same proportions on the runway as on the racks...
...want people to see the clothes in says Gianfranco Ferré, whose designs, carefully focused but not fussy, seem to capture an entire geometry of motion. "I believe clothes are living things," insists Claude Montana. Accordingly, his line of racy, kiked-up cycle-slut couture (a leather ensemble can go for as much as $3,000) is presented with some of the most elaborate and amusing theatrics in Paris. Karl Lagerfeld, whose beautifully wrought designs for Chloé, Fendi and Chanel Couture continue to bring the press to its knees, is characteristically canny and bemused. "People have just lost interest...
...less clear, though, who gets the most out of these shows. Department-store types, impatient with any nonscheduled creative process, frequently say that these many-splendored displays give the designers a hard deadline to fix on. "They're an exam, an essay, a résumé," agrees Gianfranco Ferré. "They mean I have to get my point across in 20 minutes." The point can become blunted by both visual glut and fashion overkill, however. When the eight weeks of fall fashion previews are over, a member of the fashion corps could easily have seen more than...
Professor Gianfranco Pasquino, of the University of Bologna, suggests an explanation for the trend: "To a very large extent the socialist parties in Southern Europe are new parties. The French from 1971, the Greeks from 1974 and the Spanish from 1976-77. As such, they are identified more with cultural freedom and social justice, with popular demands for improvements in education, in the environment." Pasquino believes too that the socialists in all three countries are perceived as more reliable defenders of jobs. "It is not so much that they have been able to claim they will create more jobs," says...
...cruising. Mariuccia Mandelli, who designs for Krizia, sent finlike flounces cascading all over suits and dresses-something, perhaps, for the spouse of Jaws' elasmobranch villain to slip into for the Oscars. There were the usual parades of plushy furs by Fendi and dazzling knitwear by Missoni, but even Gianfranco Ferré, who made the week's best showing with a severely drafted, almost architectural collection, took honors by default...