Word: gianfranco
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...middle-of-the-road matron can find places to squander cash this year, especially since manufacturers often ship their products with longer lengths, leaving it to stores or customers to chop or not. Lacroix kept his dazzlement to color instead of radical shapes, and at Dior Milan's Gianfranco Ferre produced a strong line of sleek, sophisticated clothes. No giddy gambits here, but what looks like an insurance policy for the historic fashion house...
Still, some clothiers are pussyfooting around the trend. In what may be a new high (or low) in fashion irony, Milan's Gianfranco Ferre is selling a real rabbit fur jacket for about $2,700. But it has been printed to look like leopard. It's hard for some of these cats to change their spots...
...world of French haute couture was atwitter over the news. After nearly 30 years as artistic director of Christian Dior, celebrated couturier Marc Bohan, 62, had been unceremoniously ousted. Succeeding him at the house that has long epitomized French fashion: Milanese designer Gianfranco Ferre, 45. Dior's managing director, Beatrice Bongibault-Dhjan, implied that Bohan's departure was sort of his idea. Said she: "It was elegant of Bohan to know when to leave...
...Light still holds a clear lead. Milan staked its claim in a time of flux, when the fashion establishment, still shell-shocked by the '60s, was not quite so restrictive. Italy came on with a rush of fresh talent: dazzling designers (like the Missonis), some fine hands (like Gianfranco Ferre) and some naughty boys (like Gianni Versace). But, in Armani, it produced just a | single world beater. Paris, on the other hand, can still offer a wider spectrum: sumptuous Saint Laurent, engaging Lagerfeld, generative Miyake, fast-flash Gaultier, ebullient Patrick Kelly. As ever, it is center stage, the arena...
Cover: Wrapped Globe, 1988 by Christo, photographed by Gianfranco Gorgoni...