Word: gigot
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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HOTTEST NEWS The bistro. The food world seems to concur that this traditional favorite is back in style, but there is little agreement about what the word means. To some it stands for eateries serving such traditional French fare as coq au vin, pot-au-feu and gigot. To others a bistro is merely a cafe with quick and simple food, much of it indistinguishable from California cuisine. Symbolic of the confusion is the representation in a new book, American Bistro, by Irena Chalmers and Friends (Contemporary; $35). Cited are Kansas City's high-style American Restaurant and the posh...
...staff of more than ten as captains, waiters and busboys, which means that 45 diners are served by at least 30 employees. Among them is his slender, blond wife Janine, who oversees the checks. She also cooks dinner at home around 6:30, relying on bourgeois fare like gigot with flageolets. Robuchon loves it, as he did his mother's cooking back in his native Poitiers. Says he: "Such food is prepared with maternal love, and it cannot be judged by ordinary standards...
Among the attractions: a suite for two at the four-star Mayflower Hotel, one block north of the Champs Elysées, complete with terrace, breakfast, tax and service, costs $50.90 (scarcely $5 more than a Holiday Inn around Detroit). Lunch for two at an elegant restaurant (green salad, gigot d'agneau, Cabernet Sauvignon and chocolate charlotte) runs $40. More modest pocketbooks can find such café fare as a small quiche or an omelet at $2, a chef's salad at $3.55. A 14-block rush-hour cab ride comes to $2.25, sans...