Word: gimbel
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Counter-Revolution. As with most revolutions, this one bred its own counterrevolution. Last week, in the perfumed air of a pale blue room on the third floor of Manhattan's Saks Fifth Avenue, one act of that counterrevolution was being staged. There Designer Sophie Gimbel was displaying her fall collection of 125 models. In the world of high fashion, it was a notable event...
...collection constituted Sophie Gimbel's conception of the New Look. As head of Saks's famed Salon Moderne, its custom dress shop, Sophie is one of the top U.S. designers. Moreover, as the U.S. dress industry is well aware, she has a razor-keen sense, as sharp as any other designer's, of what U.S. women will finally choose to wear out of the hodge-podge of new styles. As far as the great mass-producing dress shops of Manhattan's Seventh Avenue are concerned, that makes Sophie a fashion chart. What she displays one week...
...designing, selling and overseeing the 300 fitters, seamstresses, etc. in her workshop, Sophie is paid $34,000 a year by her boss, who is also her husband-Adam Gimbel, president of Saks and cousin of Bernard Gimbel, president of the parent company, Gimbel Brothers...
...Adam Gimbel, a chronic bachelor whom she had met socially some years previously, hired her after a look at some of her theatrical designs-as a "stylist" at Saks. (Stylists were experts in good taste who counseled buyers on what was "chic.") One of her jobs was to go to Paris and buy French models to bring back for Saks to copy. In 1929, he asked her to take over the then slipping Salon Moderne...
...profit, there is some disagreement. Together with the new Los Angeles salon, it will gross about $1,000,000 this year, said Sophie, and "make plenty of money." But in the incredibly expensive business of custom-made women's clothes, a profit is an elusive thing. Adam Gimbel won't say whether the salon will make one. However, Saks will net some $900,000 on Sophie Originals. Though Adam occasionally winces at Sophie's extravagant way of using $40-a-yard material (she keeps nearly $1,000,000 in materials on hand), he is exceedingly happy...