Word: ginger
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Eliot House kitchen was filled with the sweet smell of pumpkin pie throughout the weekend as 48 gallons of evaporated milk, 1,280 eggs, 560 pounds of brown sugar, 1,056 pounds of pumpkin puree and over 20 cups of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and cloves swirled in the industrial sized mixers Friday through Sunday...
...that spend years painfully trying (and failing) to be something they’re not, Rangzen’s knows exactly what it is, and what it can do. Unlike any number of Asian-American chefs who have abandoned their heritage—and make a trendy (but mediocre) ginger smoked duck instead of the stodgy (but amazing) yakitori they’ve known forever—the cooks at Rangzen’s defy the fads, embrace their roots, and succeed...
Over two trips, I ordered so many entrees, all of which ranged from about $9 to $13: chura po tsel, beautifully sautéed spinach and tender golden tofu, tossed in a light ginger and garlic sauce, phing tsel, wonderfully hearty noodles made of beans and served with spinach and potatoes...
...much Indian as it is Chinese—and Rangzen’s passed with flying colors. The chicken was tender and peppery, with just enough cumin, and not overwhelmed by tomatoes. It was fabulous mushed up in the rice. Langsha duluma (sliced beef fried with eggplant and ginger) was not so impressive—but consistent with the general rule not to order anything too heavy. And my favorite was chhasha chhu tsel, chicken and watercress in a sizzling garlic and chili sauce, very light but with a crisp and tangy twist...
Crowe's life is now significantly calmer. In the study of his vast apartment, where we lunch on calamari and ginger beer, there is a picture of Danielle Spencer, the Australian singer and actress he married this past April. Spencer is pregnant with Crowe's first child, a son, due in January. I ask if domesticity has calmed him, and he raises a hand: Eat, then interview. When lunch is over, he says, "I'm sure regardless of my marriage and impending fatherhood, certain things shift just because of age." One of those things is that he no longer goes...