Word: giorgio
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...animal skins, has, in part, boosted the new fad by encouraging designers to play with the unreal thing in their lines. Designer Christian Lacroix's fringed panther-print polymid shawl ($470) is hot stuff. Patrick Kelly has scored with skinny dresses in leopard stretch velvet ($340), and even purist Giorgio Armani uses mock lynx for a duffle coat in the Emporio Armani line ($685). After dark, the more the merrier seems to be the rule. Says Annie Allanche, a manager at Paris' Irie boutique: "Women are mixing leopard, tiger, giraffe and ocelot for evening...
...where this show begins, found itself in a fix under the immense shadow of its own cultural history. Either it made a diverting Oedipal commotion about the loathsome oppressiveness of the past, like the futurists, or immersed itself in poignant reveries about its authoritarian and alienating beauty, like Giorgio de Chirico and his associates in metaphysical painting...
...intellectuals. The Fascist rhetoric of dynamism and machine efficiency meshed with (and was partly inspired by) that of futurism; while the Duce's promise of a renewed empire, a "third Rome" that would replay the Augustan past, had immediate appeal to nostalgists like De Chirico, Carra and even Giorgio Morandi...
...help struck him as so ugly, so splotched with color, that he left it hanging in his room for a week. But people loved it, people who'd never looked at him twice, except in dismay. So he is meekly agreeable when Henderson puts him in a midnight blue Giorgio Armani suit with tone-on- tone striping. "To me, that's a front-of-the-room look," she declares...
...imprimatur, separating himself from the excellent elegances of Milan in favor of the more experimental company in Paris. The intrepid Japanese designers show their stuff in Paris; so do the haut trendies like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana. The company is faster there than in Milan, where Giorgio Armani, Italy's premier talent, casts a very long shadow indeed. "Presumptuous," is the way Armani characterizes Gigli's move, adding, "He may want to be international, but his move is premature...