Word: gnocchi
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...size has specialty stores selling freshly made pasta, as well as hard durum wheat flour for knead-it-yourselfers, and imported cheeses, sauces, oils, olives and herbs to anoint each dish. A sophisticated caterer can offer whole pasta dinners, starting with pisarei e fasoi (bean soup with gnocchi and prosciutto) through bigoli all'anitra (Venetian wheat pasta with poached duck) and baked spaghetti pie with cinnamon-flavored cream and eggs for dessert. Pasta cookbooks are churned out with dizzying regularity. Mostly written by Italians, they are generally excellent; for instance, Sicilian-descended Carlo Middione's new Pasta! Cooking...
...author is as handy with richesses like sweet-sour duck with cherries as she is with simplicities like fruit flans and potato gnocchi (which originated in Provence, not Italy). Her anthology of country stews-meat, fish and game-is thorough, as is her catalogue raisonné of cheeses. Some of the most luscious of all regional dishes are sweet: the fruity pound cake of the Loire, the tangy tartlets of Rouen and the fritters from the Alps known as pets de nonne (the name suggests they are gaseous). Willan also serves up historical tidbits. For example: Proust's madeleines...