Word: gnocchi
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...Prune Stuffed Gnocchi ($17) are deserving of their reputation as No. 9’s signature appetizer. Although based on a Northern Italian specialty of fruit-stuffed dumplings, No. 9’s version is vaulted into a different realm by the addition of a foie gras beurre blanc and seared nuggets of foie gras that explode in the mouth under the gentlest pressure of teeth. The gnocchi2 are feather-light, without any of the gumminess that often weighs them down under less skillful hands. This is a decadent dish—layers of flavor unfold with each bite...
...main course, we sampled two of the rustic pasta dishes. The gnocchi ($20) was doughy and chewy, but not excessively heavy—a fine feat for gnocchi. It was served with a bouquet of mushrooms. In fact, the dish seemed to be more mushrooms than gnocchi, a clever formula that prevented the pasta from seeming overbearing. But the fettucelle ($14) stole the show. We weren’t surprised when we learned that this delicate pasta was made fresh in the kitchen by clearly skilled hands...
...circle. She then sprinkles plump oysters over the omelette and folds it all together. Served with a sweet and spicy sauce, one uhwajian, as the oyster dish is called, splits well between two people, leaving room for more of the night market's delights. And there are many. Tangyuan, gnocchi-shaped parcels of rice paste filled with meat and scallions, are especially delicious, but pause a moment before popping the piping-hot morsels into your mouth. A burned tongue is not an impairment you want on a weekend in Taipei. Our bellies full of xiaochi, or snacks, we thank Xiao...
Members of the show’s cast perform a demanding dual role: They are at once lampooning and celebrating the archetypes their characters are based on. For every ludicrously insipid comment Joey makes to Maria, for every unflattering altercation between loudmouthed members of the Gnocchi and Ravioli families, there is the appeal of a cast which genuinely rejoices at the vitality of the community it parodies...
...virtues of a 10 a.m. beer, but the shlubby act can't really disguise his seriousness about food. Not cooking techniques, mind you, but food. Batali's books and shows don't offer the most complicated recipes (though it will take you several hours to succeed with the gnocchi in his recent book Holiday Food). Rather, Batali proselytizes about using the freshest ingredients--only mozzarella that comes in whole pound chunks swimming in their own water; only bread crumbs made from today's bread ("day old tastes like day old"); only home-made testa...