Word: goma
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...evening wear, Grès grew more conservative: one closely draped jersey dress covered the midriff completely, except for two good-sized diamond-shaped picture windows just south of the rib cage. Jules Crahay of Nina Ricci finally closed the neckline of one dress at the navel. Michel Goma and other designers offered evening-gown backs bare down to the coccyx. Patou loaded down daytime costumes with shoulder bows, capelets, streaming stoles and back skirt panels. Dior's Marc Bohan, however, departed only slightly from the closed-Dior shape of the past. Although he lowered belts until they fetched...
Most designers snugged in waistlines and billowed skirts, perhaps to allow freedom to Twist. Everybody had his say about hemlines: Laroche and Cardin lowered theirs; Dessès, Patou, Crahay. Goma and Bohan stayed within striking distance of the kneecap. Other touches: almost every designer stuck ruffles on his models, snapped wide belts around everything-even evening dresses (Balmain, who dresses Thailand's Queen Sirikit, belted a wedding gown). Apart from sex, the only other area of general agreement in Paris was color. Apricot was very big, followed by orange, yellow and the so-called sherbet colors...
...inaugurated by Dior's A-shape; this year the alphabet has yielded a softer, swirlier letter as a theme-S. At the end of a week studded with the usual fashion-show crises (Red Cross ambulances stood by for crush victims, models fainted as Zippers caught, Designer Michel Goma was rushed to the hospital with appendicitis), the trend was clear: this year's styles-though not yet ready to hug-make tentative overtures toward the female figure...
Crahay, of the house of Ricci, plunges décolletage both fore and aft (either one or the other, not both at once), swirls one-armed capes around suits and coats. Balmain's tubular sheaths stick to the body like spies but turn coy beneath coverup chiffon overlayers. Goma's collection-the theme is "looping the loop"- shows wasp waists and a high bustline. Griffe, who claims to have "rediscovered woman," calls his shape the "jet line," fans permanent pleating out from just underneath the arms or from mid-front and back to the hem. Jacques Heim...
...interrupted with a scream from the vendeuse: "But darling, you're wearing it back to front!" When Madeleine de Rauch's collection failed to follow the flapper trend, the audience began to leave, and waiters dashed in with champagne to stem the bored retreat. In contrast, Designer Goma got such an enthusiastic response that at the end of his showing he swooned away amid the applause...