Word: gourmande
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...operation, the Restaurant Michel Guérard at the spa in Eugenie-les-Bains near Lourdes is about to receive a top rating of 19 points in this year's edition of the Guide Gault-Millau, France's sprightliest food publication. (The spa also has a gourmand menu for the calorie-careless.) The more conservative and authoritative Guide Michelin, which awarded two stars to Guérard's first restaurant, Le Pot au Feu, outside Paris, has just given two stars to the Eugenie-les-Bains establishment-an unusual distinction for what is, after all, essentially...
...flour that he virtually outlaws. "Minceur is much more difficult," admits Guérard. "It demands great care and forces you to push your ideas. In five years, when the minceur is fully developed, it will be easier. But now I still prefer to forget the calories and cook gourmand." In fact, following publication of his minceur book, Guérard will issue one on gourmand cooking. But his longer-range goal is to "marry" the two cuisines-by which he means applying such cuisine minceur techniques as the use of puree bases, vapeur and white cheese cooking to classic...
...That's good psychology.) I attempted to recapture the sweet joys of youth and made a startling revelation. Vending machines, while making a profit for their owners, stock inferior candy--and even what they do have is stale. Candy bars cost a fortune. No longer can one be a gourmand on a nickel delight. Even the 15 cent and 20 cent bars have shrunk. My mouth isn't that much bigger, but the bars are consumable in one bite...
Most restaurateurs suffer silently under a gourmand's assault, but they all frown on one particular variant, the Takeout Artist. At the Stockholm, for example, Manager White caught one soberly dressed couple making off with 4 lbs. of shrimp in a concealed plastic bag after they had finished dining. When White intercepted them, both complained angrily-and the woman dumped the smuggled shrimp on the floor at his feet. A pair of California counterculturists astounded the manager of Shakey's Pizza Parlor with the huge amounts of food they were putting away-until he found an excuse...
...Reynière, a serialized Dictionary of Gastronomy and reviews of restaurants at home and abroad that Claiborne hopes will ultimately reach from Peoria to Peking. "We mean to amuse and advise," wrote Claiborne in Vol. 1, No. 1. He promises "never to use the words gourmet, gourmand and epicure except in cases of extreme necessity...