Word: gourmet
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...rhetorical, aphoristic Meredithian grand manner that finally puts off today's readers. Reading Meredith in quantity, Pritchett concedes, is like "a continuous diet of lobster and champagne," leading him to speculate whether writers with poor stomachs compensate with rich prose. (Meredith, a would-be gourmet, was afflicted by dyspepsia and had to survive at one time on vegetable juice...
...Fauchon's the epicurean grocery that boasts the Duke of Windsor among its regular customers. Wearing red handkerchiefs and armed with clubs, the raiders poured into Fauchon and began shoveling foie gras and caviar into the pockets of their combat jackets. The staff organized : a counterattack against the gourmet guerrillas. When the Maoists had been driven out, the floor was awash in vintage wine and pear brandy. Next day young Maoists, sweeping into the slums of Ivry-sur-Seine and Nanterre and a shantytown near Bugnolet, grandly distributed tins of foie gras truffé, caviar...
Scaling the Glass Mountain. What goes on in Barthelme's surrealistic, mad-dance little world? In the first place, it is peopled with the oddest, the most chillingly funny characters: Horace, a gourmet-policeman, whose pièce de résistance is Rock Cornish hen; Lars Bang, a coachman out of a period print who hits and runs like a Mafia mobster; and there is even the Phantom of the Opera's Friend...
Then something happened. Though she flew along the aisles and filled her cart with one of everything, somewhere in Gourmet Goodies, hidden from all eyes, Merilee got hung up. There were these two truffles scrunched together in a single glass jar, and it just didn't seem right. When she finally reached the checkout counter, the Stefan brother had disappeared. Praying for his return and for miracles, Merilee let the nice Ada looking person who had replaced him ring up her things and put them in four big shopping bags...
Family of Flies. In a lighter mood, Scanlan's accompanies a health inspector on a kitchen tour of Manhattan restaurants. Next to stars awarded by New York Times Gourmet Craig Claiborne, Scanlan's gives its own uncleanliness symbols: garbage cans. The worst offender (three stars, four garbage cans): the outwardly elegant Colony, where "in the bakeroom a family of flies was eating out of open bowls of strawberries in heavy syrup...